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How to Paint Kitchen Cabinets the Right Way
Take it apart and label it
Doors and drawers off, hardware bagged, every piece numbered so it goes back where it came from. Painting flat on a table gets you a smoother, drip-free finish than fighting them on the hinges.
Degrease, then sand
Kitchen cabinets carry years of cooking grease you can’t see — paint won’t stick to it. Clean with a real degreaser, then scuff-sand to dull the factory sheen so the primer can bite. Skip this and the finish peels at the first fingernail.
Bonding primer, then cabinet enamel
Use a bonding primer made to grip slick factory finishes, then a hard cabinet/trim enamel — not wall paint, which stays soft and chips. Two thin coats, sprayed or with a fine foam roller and brush, beat one thick gummy coat.
Cure before you use them
Enamel feels dry in hours but takes days to harden. Rehang gently, reattach hardware, and go easy for a week so you don’t dent a soft finish. Want it sprayed dead-smooth without living in a torn-apart kitchen? We refinish cabinets across Broward.
Frequently asked
Do I really have to sand and degrease?
Yes — kitchen grease and a slick factory finish are why cabinet paint fails. Degrease, scuff-sand, and use a bonding primer for a finish that lasts.
What paint should I use on cabinets?
A hard cabinet or trim enamel, not wall paint. Wall paint stays soft and chips on cabinets.
How long before I can use them?
Dry to the touch in hours, but give the enamel several days to cure hard before heavy use so you don’t dent it.
Can you spray them for a smoother finish?
Yes — spraying gives the closest thing to a factory finish, and it’s what we do for cabinet refinishing.